Dec 18 2008
How To - Realism = Dust, Rust, Oil, Dirt
How To - Realism = Dust, Rust, Oil, Dirt
Scale model railroad train manufacturers go to great lengths to make every bolt and seam precisely correct. Modelers should do the same. Increase the realism of your scale model trains and railroads by adding dust, rust, oil, and dirt.
The real railroads were made of materials that show signs of being constantly exposed to weather. Experienced model railroaders have learned that trains are MUCH more realistic looking when they have been “weathered”. The trick is to do it without detracting from the fine detail and damaging the beautiful paint schemes of your rolling gems.
Dust and Dirt
The shiny, just out of the paint shop look of most models is a dead giveaway that the railroad is not doing all that is needed for realism. Real trains would spend most of their lives outdoors. They’d travel through blizzards, bake in scorching sun, and be exposed to blowing dirt and dust from eroding fields. Once in while they’d be washed at a servicing facility. Once every ten or twenty years they’d be repainted. More commonly they’d be relettered for the new owners. This was not always a complete repaint. It was often done with covering over the previous owners marks and heralds, then painting through a crude stencil lettering or marks for the new road name or owners. It was done with little more care and ceremony than today’s graffiti attacks.
Carefully shield mechanisms that move or electrical contacts when “weathering”. When you are done “weathering” meticulously clean any mechanisms or areas that are not visible or that do move. Lubricate and test everything when you are done. REMEMBER: KEEP IT LIGHT! “Weathering” is a “look” it’s not really a dust storm or snow storm. You don’t want piles of dust. You just want a faint look of fading in the sun. If you have to make a choice - don’t weather it.
Also, note you are weathering individual pieces of equipment and scenery. Do not just blow chalk dust on everything. It will take forever to get your railroad running well again. You will be cleaning the running gear of your equipment again and again for years to make up for a few minutes of hasty and heavy sprinkling of chalk dust. Seriously consider doing the work away from your track and other trains until you get good at it.
Controlled dust and dirt are so common on model railroads that special colored chalks and paints have been made for the purpose. The chalk dust adheres. It is hard to remove without creating a mess in the process. The good news is that the chalk dust itself generally does NOT damage the finish on the train.
Usually the colored chalk comes as a bar or block. It is then scraped with a stiff wire brush, or metal blade (you’re willing to go dull). The colored chalk is usually ground to dust on a stiff piece of cardboard. You may want to sift the dust through a clean kitchen sifter to get a fine consistency. You can then sprinkle the dust on to the train in a controlled way. Use a dry disposable brush to gently spread it around and to clean gearing, flanges, etc. A very light (almost hazy) coating of grey dust can work wonders on the realism. The special railroad modeling chalks come in a variety of colors. Browns can be used to simulate dirt and mud that has splashed up and dried on the lower sections of the train. Select a color that is compatible with your terrain.
Rust
Steel and iron metal rusts very quickly when exposed to rain and basic moisture in the air. Rails should be painted with rust colors. There are railroad paints labeled “rust”. Don’t paint the top of the rails. (Use masking tape on top of the rails. Clean tape and glue once the paint has dried.) Real rails rust on top, but the motion of the train’s wheels on top quickly grinds off the rust to a dull gray metallic color. Most model trains pickup their electricity from the track and it won’t work if you paint the top of the track.
Oil
The railroad companies need to oil and lubicate their rolling stock to get best performance. There are puddles of oil on the ground and in between the rails. This can be modelled using a dark black paint and making a few drips and puddles. You can even have a small amount of “grease” leaking from an occasional axle or other lubication point. Remember to put a light coating of dust or dirt on top. Real grease and oil mixes with the dust and dirt after a while.
This “weathering” also applies to buildings, machinery, signals, and even the clothes of your train crews. At the very least spray them lightly with a spray of “dull coat” or diluted “dull” matt medium. Take the toy factory shine off. (Remember to mask off areas of your model that you want to protect from the spray.)
Carefully shield mechanisms that move or electrical contacts when “weathering”. When you are done “weathering”, meticulously clean any mechanisms or areas that are not visible or that move. Clean your track everywhere, the light dust can float into switches and rails. It’s designed to stick once once it lands. Lubricate and test everything when you are done. REMEMBER: KEEP IT LIGHT! “Weathering” is a “look” it’s not really a dust storm or snow storm. You don’t want piles of dust. You just want a faint look of fading in the sun.
Have fun!
Trainguy